On Vacation From My Vacation Life

It’s been summer and I’ve been on vacation from my vacation life.

No painting, no writing, little photography, no special projects, little time on-line, not much time in The Bunkie at all. Instead I moved locations and spent my time outside in The Bunkie Patio, reading books, playing Sudoku, watching hummingbirds and petting Dennis the Cat who would settle himself on my lap for a morning/mid-day/afternoon/anytime nap. Beside the Pergola, stretched out on the garden lounge chair, I named this activity “Pergin’, singing to the tune of Bob Marley’s “Jammin’”.

Every half hour or so I would see something in the garden that needed attention and would get up to water or deadhead or whatever – one thing leads to another and it might be awhile before I could find my way back to my chair. It was not all peace and bliss however and every so often escape became necessary.

The new construction behind us continues apace, as the framers are at work now, hammering and sawing and drilling with the pfsssst of the compressor going off every few minutes. During those first days of starting construction of the house the carpenters started up at 7:30 in the morning, shattering the peace and quiet. I thought of Number One Son, Steve, the carpenter, who no doubt was doing the same thing at his own build down in Sooke. That made it easy – all that was needed was an attitude adjustment. All I had to do was think of these construction workers as a bunch of little Steve’s, working hard to buy dog food for a bunch of little Rosie’s. Problem solved, pound away.

Steve’s Rosie

As it turned out, the build in the lot behind us was not our only problem this summer. There’s another new build on the next street over, and that noise comes in from that direction, and across the street Neighbour Dave is doing a major house renovation, most of which takes place in the evenings and weekends, so when the guys behind us knock off for the day, it starts up across the street. Likewise Neighbour Wayne decided to build the biggest garage ever, within eye and ear shot, and he too is doing it after work hours, on weekends and well into the evening hours. Across the street in another direction another neighbour decided to have a new fence built. Then the chainsaws started as our next neighbour decided to cut down the tree that served as a privacy screen between our two properties. The summer of noise.

Sometimes I would wear big noise-cancelling head phones, working my way on shuffle through 4573 songs in my iTunes Library. Often we would flee for the day, exploring new places not too far away and expanding the perimeter.

Kayaking to the White Whale

Over the years anytime I have made any kind of wish list, I’ve always had “do more kayaking” on it. But there’s a big difference between wishing and executing and I really don’t know why I haven’t made the effort all that often. That may be about to change.

One summer weekend we drove up to Courtenay (a 45 minute drive up the coast) where we rented a kayak to make our way up the estuary to the river.

We launched our double kayak and started pedaling up the estuary toward our destination. That is not a typo. This kayak, a Hobie, has pedals, we didn’t use the paddles strapped alongside at all. It was a blast. It reminded me of the pedal boat at the cottage years ago I was so fond of and unlike my experience on a later rental on Quadra Island on another occasion using a regular kayak, no sore shoulder or blisters on the base of the thumb. This particular kind of kayak can even come with an optional electric motor! (We didn’t have one on our rental). Seems bizarre to me but I get it. Keeping the boomers active and out on the water.

The estuary was magnificent – that just-above-the-water-level view was the perfect vantage point to watch the resting geese and other shore birds. We passed by dozens of seals and watched a group of 4 sharing a large salmon, tearing off chunks of the deep pink (uh salmon-coloured) flesh. Eagles perched above us in tall trees along the river and I spotted a brown feathered juvenile, under two years old, who had not yet grown into his distinctive white-head coloration.

Our destination – our favourite lunch spot, the White Whale pub. Many times I’ve sat on their terrace overlooking the river and watched people paddling up to the dock and many times I’ve wished that was me.

 

Tribal Journeys 2017

Speaking of paddling…

On another day trip we headed up to Campbell River to be part of the welcoming at the conclusion of this year’s Tribal Journeys epic canoe voyage.

Since 1993 First Nations tribes from all over the coast participate in the annual event making their way along the coast to the destination of whichever tribe is hosting the potlatch for that year. This time the hosts were the We Wai Kai and We Wai Kum of Quadra Island and Campbell River. Depending where they are coming from, some canoes are on the water for as many as 5 weeks, stopping along the way for rest and recovery at different tribal territories along the coast. It is a time of reconnection between peoples and honouring the past and present of these seafaring nations.

This year over 85 canoes from over 50 tribes completed the journey, landing that afternoon under the hazy, smokey skies that had descending on us that week from the inland fires. As they made the ceremonial crossing across the waters between Campbell River and Quadra Island they were greeted by a humpback whale. It was exciting to watch the canoe families paddle past us; the crowd had great energy as we all celebrated the event, both as bystanders and participants. People-watching in the crowd was as much fun as watching those sleek, beautifully painted canoes.

 

This year we celebrate the 150th anniversary of this country. First Nations also have something to celebrate. Surviving those 150 years. Despite best efforts.

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Feeling the Land

When Oliver Sacks was a young man, after finishing his medical training he decided to move to Canada. On his first trip across the country he met a man he calls “The Professor” who gave this young traveler some advice.

“Travel now by all means – if you have the time. But travel the right way…always reading and thinking of the history and geography of a place. See its people in terms of these, placed in the social framework of time and space.”

A local writer and historian I met recently described this as “feeling the land”, a righteous pastime for those of us with over-active imaginations.

After my first short visit to Quadra Island last solstice (So What Could Possibly Go Wrong), I went back for a day trip with a small group of people on a history tour with Jeanette Taylor, who literally wrote the book on the history of Quadra and the surrounding area. Under her guidance and knowledge, a bunch of scratched rocks on a low tide beach became petroglyphs carved by people thousands of years ago; an old house, restored by its current owner, became the first home built by a first white settler on the island; a quiet bay in the north of the island, now a place of pleasure boats and kayakers became a bustling port and settlement for early logging and mining activity; a clearing deep in the woods became an early gold mine and the Heriot Bay Inn that has been there since the earliest European settlers had many juicy tales to tell, as well as a few ghosts.

The only thing left of the abandoned gold mine are a couple of crumbling structures, now collapsed and covered with moss and brush, the remains of a huge steam donkey and a couple of deep, dark holes in the ground, the mine shafts, now covered with iron grills for safety. The mine still has gold in it but the extraction has been difficult; the mine used to keep flooding, hence the machinery to keep it pumped out. It wasn’t active for long. Peering down the narrow shaft through the grill holes makes my skin crawl – what a way to earn a living. Life must have been rough back then. Many of the men who were traveling to these parts to take advantage of land being offered up for preemption by the government (First Nations’ land – another story) weren’t farmers and had to go off and get whatever work they could find, which was usually in mining and logging – both incredibly dangerous occupations in those days.

Lucky Jim Mine Shaft

Luna Vista CottageWe returned once again to Quadra for several days around Labour Day where I’d rented a (different) cottage with killer views over a sheltered bay towards the islands beyond and mainland mountain ranges. Looking directly across at the Rebecca Spit which almost encircled the bay, was a stretch of land, just to the left of a break in the trees, that had a history much older than that of those early European settlers. Here an archeological dig 50 years ago found that this place had been a look out and fort for the First Nations people on this land, used for a period of time until about 450 years ago – pre contact – during times of war with other tribes, a time when people were afraid. The archaelogists found the postholes and remnants of 3 buildings, the palisade enclosure and surrounding trenches. I can see the gap where the trench cutting off the north end of the spit was.

Sunset over Rebecca Spit

Juvenile Eagle at Rebecca SpitI went over to check it out. Of course now, many years after the dig, and many many more since it was in use, there is nothing left to see. A patch of land, a ridge, a wide view of the strait and a big juvenile bald eagle now hanging out in a tree above – still a lookout place for someone. I walked the site and the rocky beach in front of it, trying to figure out what it was about that place that had made it an ideal look out and imagining what it was like to live there then, under threat from these waters. Open views to the south, views to the islands to the north, wide open to the storms that toss tree trunks up on the beach like toothpicks. The trees that are now on the land have grown up since then and even the spit itself is not the same. The 7.3 earthquake that hit central Vancouver Island in 1946 crumbled the end of it back into the depths.

Today Rebecca Spit is a provincial park enjoyed by many, and the protected bay is a popular anchor for the summer pleasure boats around these beautiful islands. It’s a gorgeous, protected spot beside adjacent protected Heriot Bay – no doubt a desirable place for whoever that old lookout post was protecting, as it still is today.

Nothing left to “see”, lots to “feel”.

After days of hiking, exploring and view dreaming, by this third visit of the season I had become so infatuated with Quadra Island, I announced that I wanted a summer cottage there and planned to buy one when I win the lottery. Hmmm. Better check my lottery ticket. I looked up the winning numbers and compared. First number, check – got it, second, check – got that one too, third, check (this was getting weird), fourth, check, fifth check – sixth, close but no cigar. I had 5 of 7 numbers. Would you like to know what the difference is between 5 winning numbers and 7 winning numbers? $54,999,895. I won $105.

oliver-sacks-book_0001Ephemera: On that first cross-country trip to Canada, the young Oliver Sacks spent a summer here in Qualicum Beach. He never did settle in Canada in the end. A subsequent trip to San Francisco captured his heart and he moved to the U.S. instead where he went on to become a neurologist and writer (Awakenings, The Man Who Mistook His Wife For a Hat). He continued to follow The Professor’s advice in a lifetime of travels.

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It’s All About the Fish

Hipster Eagle by Angie Roussin 2014 pinastyles.com

Best hotel, best food, best ride. Our recent 3-day road boat trip to Ucuelet was The Best.

Instead of driving across the island, this time we decided to go by boat. Getting up early we drove half an hour through the mountains to Port Alberni, technically a west coast city but way far up a Pacific Ocean inlet, to board the MV Frances Barkley, a working supply boat servicing remote places without road access, that also takes tourists for a terrific ride. By the time we reached Ucuelet we had seen a bear foraging on a beach, humpback whales, seals, eagles, logging operations and fishing boats. Especially fishing boats. We saw hundreds of small sport fishing boats on the way out. (“Oh, this is nothing”, said the Port Alberni ‘Chamber Ambassador’ volunteer accompanying the tourists in her bright yellow windbreaker. “You should see it when the fish are REALLY running”.) There were the large seiners easing out their nets, deftly circling the attached white floats, and on the way back, we saw the smaller gill net boats, lined up for miles and miles along the side of the inlet, not moving, waiting for the radio call that opens the fishery. When the call comes everyone snaps to and there is frantic movement as they all move into position and cast their nets to grab whatever salmon is there. I know for sure they get in each others’ way sometimes as I watched as our own boat, trying to make its way through the boats and nets, actually run over the edge of one of them (the net that is).

Seiner Alberni Inlet

I’ve been traveling to the west coast of the island for many years now. Most of the time we have stayed in Tofino, 10 miles down the road, past the beaches and the park. I love it there too. This is the second time staying in Ucuelet and it is quickly gaining my affections.

As far as I’m concerned, the best hotel is no hotel, so the Whiskey Landing Lodge was a good compromise. Stepping into the suite with panoramic views of the inlet, docks and mountains, the very first thought was “This is it, I’m not leaving this room. Ever.” And settled in to watch the action.

The Whiskey Landing Lodge was originally designed and built to be condos. The man who created and built it used the timber logged from his own woodlot in Barkley Sound and the details and craftsmanship are beautiful. Somehow his plans and dreams went awry and it was never finished as a condo property. Lucky for me, after sitting vacant for a few years as he sorted out his problems, it was acquired to be run as a hotel, but aside from a small check-in counter on the ground floor with friendly and helpful staff, it feels like a private residence. No spa, no restaurant, no room service – just space, peace and views. My kind of place.

From my windows and balcony I watched this fishing village in action, from 5:00 am departures of the sportfisher boats to middle of the night, lights blazing, seiners going out to who knows where. We went on a small tour boat one day in search of wildlife and viewed the harbour from the water side, with its shabby but hugely colourful packing plants and icemaking buildings and fishermen unloading their catch. Outside the inlet we motored out to distant rocks and islands to get up close and personal with resting Stellar sea lions and seals, gathering energy until they too went back out fishing.

Seals Ucuelet

 

Being in Ucuelet without a car meant settling in and getting to know the town itself. Instead of hopping in the car and heading down to road to Long Beach or off to Tofino for lunch, we walked around and discovered places we hadn’t seen before – chowder at the dockside pub watching the fishermen docking after a day out, the Raven’s Lady food truck with its dynamite oyster menu on the main street and the  Reflecting Spirit gallery filled with local art I found one day in a nondescript mall while out taking my camera for a walk.

Juvenile Eagle Ucuelet

This young eagle was perched on top of the mast of the large boat docked right in front of us. He (I’m guessing it was) was at eye level to me on my balcony. I took what seemed like 12,000 pictures and watched him and his family for a long time with binoculars. Behind him, perched on trees on the small island opposite, were his brother and parents. I watched as Dad fished, swooping around on the surface until leaning in for the grab. Clutching the fish in his talons, weighed down, he flew off with it, skimming the surface. Juvenile eagles look like this for the first five years of their lives, eventually morphing into the white heads and tails of adulthood. Their parents mate for life and live for 30 years.

I’d say the best measure of a successful trip is when you get home and immediately want to return. I will.

Hipster Eagle by Angie Roussin 2014 pinastyles.com

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