Summer Day Tripping

Another summer passes through and once again, no travel or visitors other than Steve and the grand-dog and cat. We had a late start, summer really didn’t get started until mid-July after many months of cool, wet weather, but after last year’s horror show of extreme heat events cool and wet was fine, no complaints there. I feel for those in Europe and south of the border whose turn it was this year to live through such extreme heat, drought and fires, and to those elsewhere on the planet affected by the other extremes of massive flooding. This year, for now at least, here on coastal British Columbia we have escaped the worst of the extremes. In our backyard this was also the best ever year for the fuchsias who don’t like the dry heat and usually collapse by late July – they’ve been looking great all season.

Our travelling has been limited to day trip hikes and there are a wealth of options within short drives from where we live. Here are some new explorations as well as an old favourite transformed.

Walking History – Cameron Lake Railway

On the way to the west coast of the island between here and Port Alberni, about half an hour’s drive from home, the road passes alongside Cameron Lake. I have long been curious to explore the far side of the lake, where I knew there was a trail along an old rail line built in 1911 which connected the coast to Port Alberni, long since abandoned. This summer I did a little research on how to find the trailhead and away we went.

Not too far in to the trail you come across a large, flat clearing where the old station used to stand. All the track is intact, along with remnants of machinery as I guess it would have been too difficult to take out given the steep terrain along the lake – it must have been a real challenge to build in the first place.

The trail. Slopes above and slopes below.

Evidence of human industry in the forest beside the track:

And beautiful wildflowers and mushrooms juxtaposed with the iron rails.

There are several trestle bridges along the way, built to solve the problem of the mountain’s steep slopes.

One of the Cameron Lake Rail Trestles (found this online but unfortunately no mention of the photographer)

This was the first of the trestles along the way. I stood there for awhile looking at the dodgy looking timbers, the gaps between them in places and the long drop to solid ground, unmaintained since the rail track was abandoned. Nope. Not for me. Don’t wanna, can’t make me. Time to turn around.

Friends along the way:

Stellar Jay – you often hear them before you spot them. Noisy!

Heading back out, passing the old station area. Way out in the background is the distant mountain with visible clear cuts. All across the mountain slopes of Vancouver Island are the highly visible patchwork of logging industry clear cuts. More on that later.

Finally a rest and a picnic on a little beach on the lake’s shore.

The Top of the World – Mount Washington

About an hour away from us are the ski slopes of Mount Washington, a popular place in the winter for skiers (not me) but also equally as wonderful in the summer. At the foot of the mountain are a series of easy trails around parts of the Forbidden Plateau (love that name) that are filled with alpine wildflowers and trees we don’t see where we are down at sea level on the coast. Our walk was not a long one but this is also the trailhead for much longer wilderness trails. We passed several groups of hikers laden with big backpacks full of the necessaries for multi-day hikes. Hardcore.

Below is the view from the plateau’s lakes up to the slopes of Mount Washington. I kept eyeing the top. I have to get up there!

Here’s how I hike to the top of a mountain – I catch a ride!:

View below the ski lift – what do you do when there’s no snow? Mountain biking.

Top of Mount Washington. This view looking down the island, with the waters and islands of the Strait of Georgia to the left, covered in the haze of this hot August day.

View over to the mountain range. I looked at this scene for awhile wondering what was wrong with what I was seeing. Then I got it. No clear cuts! That’s because this is part of the oldest provincial park in British Columbia (1911) – Strathcona Park – 250,000 hectares of rugged, mountainous wilderness in the centre of the island.

View to the west. Clear cuts behind an active mine foreground.

As we climbed on the ski lift to head back down my 20 year old Tilley hat (see my photo in the sidebar) blew off so we stayed onboard to go back up again to retrieve it. No worries, more time to enjoy this wonderful scenery on top of the world.

My Favourite Trail – China Creek

The China Creek trailhead is located about an hour’s drive away, past Port Alberni on the Bamfield Road to the west coast. The road is unsealed and after parking the car by the side of the road you literally have to run from car into the forest entrance, as passing vehicles, mostly logging trucks, kick up huge amounts of dust every minute or so. But once you make it in, you find a paradise of huge, dense forest along the most beautiful creek. Following the trail for a few kilometers, you finally reach some steep terrain – a bit challenging – but at the end the reward is the most beautiful waterfall falling between steep, tree covered cliffs. It is not a park, but is clearly well taken care of by volunteers who maintain the trail and the ropes to assist in the steep parts and build little log bridges over the wet parts where streams feed into the creek. In places the creek widens out into calmer pools of clear, inviting water, a good place to swim or just rest and enjoy. Very few people.

We’ve been visiting this place every summer for years now and this July we eagerly returned for the first time this year. As we made our way along the path through the dense, mixed forest along the creek, so happy to be back again, I announced out loud, “This is my favourite trail”. Famous last words.

And then we turned the corner. To find this:

The entire slope along the path was gone. This camera lens I was using doesn’t even begin to capture the depth and scale of the horror. I stood there in complete shock and couldn’t even move for awhile. A scene of complete violence, I felt like I had been kicked in the stomach. It went on and on like this as we continued walking for the next half hour. It’s not just about the removal of trees, the entire ecosystem had been destroyed – all the moss communities that were as old as the trees themselves, the ferns and understory plants, the seedling trees creating the next generation and all the habitat for countless species of insects, invertebrates, birds and mammals. All gone in a flash, thanks to the heavy machinery that they bring in to harvest timber in the most “efficient” way – by wiping out everything.

In silence we continued, to the place where the steep, rope assisted climb begins, and the cut slope swung away out of view. Eventually we descended to our destination. The falls.

After the long hike in, a picnic on the rocks surrounding the pool at the bottom of the 10 meter high falls, with this little guy on the rock in front of me for company:

A last look at a beloved place, before retracing our steps to hike back out past the carnage, heart broken as I know it will be the last time. Yesterday as I was putting this post together I came across a new word, a recent term making its way into the vocabulary:

Solastalgia – formed by the combination of the Latin words sōlācium (comfort) and the Greek root -algia (pain, suffering, grief), that describes a form of emotional or existential distress caused by environmental change.

Nothing left to do but lace up the hiking shoes, expand the perimeter and go in search of a new favourite place. But the sadness remains.

Fantastic Fungi Part 3 (the last)

It’s a long strange trip from trees that communicate with each other to mushrooms living inside nuclear reactors – and following those threads has been, as I said, like going down a rabbit hole. It seems like coming up for air to contemplate the little white button mushrooms on a dinner plate which is where my early awareness of them began, and the word fungi never entered into it. Even then, in my middle-class, white, Canadian childhood in the 1950’s and 1960’s mushrooms as food barely registered.

The Mushroom Man’s booth at the Qualicum Beach Saturday market.

As our culture expanded to incorporate the culinary offerings from around the world, eating mushrooms became a whole new thing. Nowadays the chanterelles, the oysters, the morels, the shitake are much more common. A mushroom grower and woodland picker has a booth at our local Saturday farmer’s market and sells jars of dried mushrooms of all kinds of species, as well as a few fresh types that are quickly snatched up. Where once wild mushrooms were looked upon with great suspicion, (because after all, can’t they kill you?), now they are in great demand. Although the market mushroom man still cautions, “if I think I spot a familiar mushroom as I walk through the woods I’ll walk by. I only pick it if I know what it is”.

Lion’s Mane mushroom from The Mushroom Man. I cook it with risotto and serve it with a flourish – come and get it – Brain Food!

Mushrooms have been used as medicine in other cultures for a very long time but In recent years mushrooms have also been studied by Western medicine for their potential medicinal benefits for humans and as promising-sounding results seep out of the lab (lion’s mane for dementia, turkey tail for cancer and so on), health food store shelves are expanding the expensive mushroom supplement offerings. Why cook dinner when you can swallow a pill or seep a $2.49 teabag? The research may still be in discovery stage, with clinical trials still to come, as is the way in western science, but why wait, some may say. There’s money to be made in mushroom “health” supplements.

But mushrooms as a food source or even early indications that they might have medicinal effects on disease are not the most interesting part of the human-mushroom interaction. Not by a long shot. The really long strange trip is yet to come.

MAGIC MUSHROOMS

Psilocybin is a naturally occurring compound present in several hundred species of mushrooms that when ingested by humans has a psychoactive affect – a psychedelic that can cause an altered state of consciousness for several hours, a “trip”. During this time, the effects are highly variable and, depending on things like dosage, the mindset of the individual and the setting, can result in feelings of euphoria, mental and visual hallucinations, time distortion, perception changes and spiritual experiences.

It’s been known for a long time that psilocybin (as well as LSD, also derived from another type of fungus) can have very positive effects on some of the most intractable mental health conditions and in recent years, after a long pause of over 30 years, there’s been a resurgence in clinical research in its use in the treatment of PTSD, alcohol abuse, treatment-resistant depression, and the anxiety, distress and depression experienced by people with cancer and facing terminal illness. These treatments are not requiring multiple doses over long periods of time as in other conventional modalities. What they are finding is that even a single dose guided session can have profoundly positive results in these patients that last a very long time, sometimes years. Furthermore, they characterize what is happening as not about the drug per se, but rather about the experience itself, which is not the typical pharmaceutical intervention model. In one study of end-stage cancer patients, they found that a large majority had a significant reduction in depression and anxiety, completely resetting their attitudes towards death, an improvement in well being and life satisfaction. This was described by the researchers as “one of the most effective psychiatric interventions these psychiatrists had ever seen”.

Now psilocybin mushrooms have been known to be used by various indigenous peoples over thousands of years for healing and spiritual insight. They only became known to Western culture in the 1950’s (LSD had been previously synthesized in the 1930’s) when an American banker and amateur ethnomycologist R. Gordon Wasson, who with his physician wife Valentina Wasson studied their ritual use by an indigenous people in a village in Mexico and tried it themselves. He went on to publish an in-depth article of their experiences in the widely popular Life magazine, which generated huge interest and marked the beginning of experimentation with psychedelics both in and out of the lab.

R. Gordon Wasson – an early Western magic mushroom tripper

The Life Magazine issue that brought magic mushrooms to the American public – check out the full article with accompanying photos here – very cool!

Through the 1950’s and 1960’s there was a lot of research being done to see how this newly “discovered” substance could yield insights and treatment options for mental health conditions and the findings were very positive. Over 1000 clinical papers were published in the professional literature discussing the experiences of 40,000 patients treated with hallucinogens.

And then it stopped.

By the the mid-1960’s psychedelics had “escaped the lab” and both LSD and psilocybin along with other drugs became widely available for experimenting by many young people who were also questioning the attitudes of the previous generation during a period of rebellion against authority, characterized as the “generation gap”. This was the age of the “counterculture” and there was a lot to rebel against. In the U.S. thousands of young men were being drafted and sent to the other side of the world to fight a losing war in the jungles of Viet Nam, and anti-war protests along with anti-racism demonstrations against an unjust society spread across the country. Richard Nixon called drugs “public enemy number one” and in a sense he was right. If you want people to shut up about a war and keep sending young people overseas to kill and be killed, the last thing you want is for someone like Timothy Leary to be advocating that they take a drug that would open their eyes to what was really going on – “to tune in, turn on and drop out”. Thus began the invention and launch in 1971 of the “War on Drugs”. The inclusion of marijuana and the hallucinogens LSD and psilocybin on a list of banned drugs that also included the more problematic, addictive cocaine, heroin and methamphetamines was a political act designed to dampen anti-war and anti-race discrimination protest and the drug propaganda machine was rolled out in full force.

Insight into how drug use and addiction changed from being a medical issue to a criminal one can be found in a 1994 interview with John Ehrlichman, Domestic Affairs Advisor in the Nixon White House who described what they did with the “War on Drugs” in the following way:

“The Nixon campaign in 1968, and the Nixon White House after that, had two enemies: the antiwar left and [B]lack people. You understand what I’m saying? We knew we couldn’t make it illegal to be either against the war or [B]lack, but by getting the public to associate the hippies with marijuana and [B]lacks with heroin, and then criminalizing both heavily, we could disrupt those communities. We could arrest their leaders, raid their homes, break up their meetings, and vilify them night after night on the evening news. Did we know we were lying about the drugs? Of course we did.”

The U.S. government, when LSD and psilocybin were placed on the list of restricted drugs declared that these were dangerous drugs, highly addictive and had no medical use. None of that was true. Researchers were having tremendous results treating mental health issues but why let the truth get in the way of political propaganda. Canada and other countries followed the U.S. lead. That’s how psilocybin became illegal and all legitimate medical research on the substance came to a screeching halt.

So how do you ban a magic mushroom? Well like any prohibition you can’t. It just goes underground (so to speak). Mushrooms that contain psilocybin grow in the wild and are easy to cultivate. They are still deemed illegal substances but as more and more positive medical research results come to the light of day, the more the constraints are very slowly loosening. Last year Health Canada began granting legal exemptions for psilocybin, mainly to people with a terminal illness or treatment-resistant depression, a cumbersome process. Selected doctors and therapists have also been given permission to use it under certain conditions. In the U.S. over the past few years, psilocybin has been decriminalized in a number of cities and in 2020 Oregon became the first state to both decriminalize psilocybin and also legalize it for therapeutic use, although like cannabis, it is still illegal under federal law.

Meanwhile, some people aren’t waiting. You can buy magic mushrooms online, as dried product, in capsules or edibles, you can buy mushroom growing kits if you want to grow your own, and in Vancouver and Toronto storefront dispensaries are selling them openly. Shades of the pre-legalized cannabis situation.

Former cannabis legalization advocate Dana Larsen in his new venture, Medicinal Mushroom Dispensary in Vancouver

The majority of patients in the psilocybin clinical trials have characterized the experience as one of, if not the most, significant and meaningful experiences of their lives. When I hear, in their own words, how dying cancer patients have experienced through magic mushrooms such profound and lasting mystical experiences of unity – a strong sense of the interconnectedness of all people and things; sacredness – feelings of awe, humility, holiness, wonder; a deeply felt positive mood and feeling of transcendence; of gratitude, compassion, equanimity and appreciation for being alive in this very moment; loss of fear of death and realization that everything is love, I can’t help but ask the question – using the magic in mushrooms or not, why would I want to wait until I’m dying to experience this?

For more, check out Michael Pollan’s recent deep dive in the book How to Change Your Mind

Hello Old Friend

Yesterday morning I was walking in the forest (no, not looking for mushrooms) checking out the tree branches with an eye peeled for Owl. As usual. It had been almost exactly a year since I’ve spotted one. Walking along the loop trail I became aware of a commotion up ahead – a group of birds, swooping and yelling, clearly very upset. I stopped and without even bothering to scan the trees or look through my binoculars, I reached into my bag, pulled out my camera and changed to my long lens. I knew exactly what I’d find.

It’s always a thrill. I hung around watching and photographing the action for a long time. There were several songbird species coming in to sound the alarm, they were seriously pissed off and didn’t let up on harassing that owl. Not for a minute. They screamed and yelled, always on the move, flying from one branch to another, perching on branches as close as they dared, getting up into the owl’s face and even flying in close to peck the owl on the head. The owl moved perch three times but other than that sat there looking completely unperturbed, ignoring them while scanning the ground below.

While I was standing there a family came walking along the trail towards me. Among them were two young sisters, maybe aged about 9 and 11, and as they passed behind me I heard the youngest speaking earnestly to the other about what needed to be done to help the planet. She was describing the packaging of a loaf of bread she’d seen that had a cardboard tie instead of a plastic one, and how important that was. As they passed she looked at me and I smiled.

Her mother came along then with other members of the family and stopped to see what I was doing. I pointed out what was going on, gave them my binoculars and stepped aside. The girls doubled back and there were then three generations of this family watching owl and the other birds, passing the binoculars back and forth between them, phone cameras out (the mother took a picture with her phone through the binocs). They were all thrilled and it was a delight to see them share my own feelings about it. As they were leaving I told the sisters, who were beside themselves with excitement, to make sure that they listened to the birds when they were in the forest as you never know what you might find.

As they left, I turned to watch them go and heard the youngest sister say to her family “I love life!”

I thought my already ecstatic heart would explode. THERE’s our future.